Figure 21) push both ‘clays’ together and set ears in place – check reference - camera is giving a little distortion on ear set – they don’t stick up near this much in actuality
Figure 20a) here are both eyes tucked – scary at this stage of the game
Figure 20) here is the first eye tucked – I start with the inner corner and then work my way around – I use a dentists tool on small mammals to tuck lids
Figure 19) invert the eyelids and trim to size – you only need about a ¼” for tucking – when you are skinning s small mammal you need to be very careful that you get as much eyelid as you can – some people don’t use eyelid skin at all on small mammals but merely glue (5 minute epoxy) the skin to eye – this works too but doesn’t give you much control over eye sculpting as it dries but this is a valid method and I used it early on and had good success – anyway we’re going to tuck the eyes on this guy
Figure 18a) turn mount back up straighten and readjust lipline - very little black will show – remember the rule…. Hair to hair – this is still a little rough looking and will be readjusted a couple more times b4 it looks right – by the way I hope you use reference – ALL MAMMALS either look real or fake because of two items….. eyes and ears – if these two things don’t look right nothing else will either
Figure 18) next I tuck the bottom of face – don’t forget the glue
Figure 17) next I pin the bottom lip in place
Figure 16a) I tuck the top of the face first
Figure 16) the first thing I tuck is the area below the nose – remember hair to hair – everything in the tucking procedure is going to be readjusted so if it doesn’t look perfect now it will look a lot better later
Figure 15) apply glue b4 pulling hide over face – make sure and get glue in slot under nose
COYOTE SHOULDER MOUNT TAXIDERMY TUTORIAL
by Terry Davis
Effingham, Illinois
In Memory of
"Mr. Coyote"
Terry Davis
WHITETAIL DESIGNER SYSTEMS, INC.
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